Drove up to Big Sur to see my friends Fishtank Ensemble play at the Big Sur Spirit Garden. The Spirit Garden is an amazing-looking place...by far the best feature is these Spirit Nests, which are basically human bird nests that come furnished with a mattress for overnights. My calculations were an entire hour off though, and arrived just as Fishtank finished. Shared some really nice wine with them and went to sleep in the top bunk of their Eurostar or Eurovan (?) instead of a lovely nest...didn't end up getting a lot of sleep, but enjoyed the camping experience nonetheless.
We then drove up to Monterey and took a walk around Fisherman's Village, where proprietors were practically throwing clam chowder at us in an effort to lure us into their restaurants. Got a lovely coconut and almond ice cream cone instead...then drove back down the coast to Cambria, where we had dinner and wine and played Gin Rummy until we fell asleep.
Up early in the morning to watch Teddy Kennedy's memorial...I was really impressed by Kerry's speech, as it was probably the most beautiful thing he's ever delivered on a podium. Got some breakfast at Linn's Pies in Cambria, then straight to Hearst Castle, where I finally took something other than the Beginner's Tour. I highly recommend Tour #2, as you get to see Hearst's bedroom (where his lampshades consist of Indenture contracts from America's early days, his ceiling is 14th century Spanish, his couches are covered in the MOST exquisite fabric ever), Marion Davies' bedroom (quite lovely too), Hearst's libraries (one prize original is Gulliver's Travels, which Harpo Marx almost accidentally pinched), his work room (large and palatial, with it's own library), and this magnificent guest bedroom on the top floor, with french windows all around, wood carved walls, and a bed as the centerpiece (called the Celestial Bedroom I think). My god. Hearst really gives you something to aspire to. More than ever, I want my own library. On a hilltop.
the Celestial Suite
And, Hearst's beach allows dogs! So Omar ran on the beach and in the water for the first time!!!
Wonderful trip, beautiful fresh air...only to return to smoke-filled Los Angeles.
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